The collection could have been called “Oilseed”. Or “Colza” in smoothly pronounced Italian. But in times of mineral oil shortage “Black Gold” sounds precious—and raw. And it’s this combination that incorporates a lot of the design spirit inherent in the latest prêt-à-porter collection by Diesel. “Diesel Black Gold”, showcased at the New York Fashion Week, is the company’s next step toward the luxury segment. But in a way that is to be expected from a man who thought his first pair of homemade jeans were “too stiff, too weird, too clean,” and so thirty years ago invented the used-look: Renzo Rosso dragged his jeans across a cement floor until he felt comfortable in them. The unconventional Italian was also responsible for revolutionizing the fashion world again three years ago when his company became the first jeans label on the catwalk of high fashion. Subversive luxury, in the sense of spirit and material, instead of opulence for its own sake. Six creative minds worked on the autumn/winter collection, and the results are especially interesting where the clothes are markedly three-dimensional, almost sculptural without being overpoweringly arty: the baggy trousers inspired by Japanese work clothes, made of bleached denim for example, or the brown leather dress whose armholes have been repositioned lower down to create voluminous, almost tank-like shoulder puffs, whilst still retaining an unmistakable graceful silhouette. This transformational work with material and form also works for men, as can be seen by the lacquer tailcoat with zips and hood, combined with flowing trousers and sheer knitwear. The colors of the overall collection: powdered dusty nuances between grey, brown and black. Rarely has this level of purist architectonic spirit been seen from an Italian designer.
Text > Julia Christian
foto > Daniela Müller-Brunke / www.mueller-brunke.com
production > Antje Drinkuth
make-up & hair > Christian F. / www.perfectprops.de
model > Yuliya Barbashova / www.modelwerk.de
retouching > Kristina Reissland / www.kristinareissland.de
photo assistance > Alice Barthelemy
production assistance > Nina Trippel
bikini top > vintage
pants > Diesel Black Gold
belt > By Malene Birger
shoes > Diesel
