Saegreifinn | Moby Dick on a stick

Justice can still be found in Reykjavik’s gastronomy scene. Those not willing to spend half a month’s rent on a trip to a restaurant should order one of the generally mediocre appetizers at a price that is still painful and in the end does not leave you feeling full. The champion of justice is Saegreifinn (Sea Baron) or rather its owner, former galley cook Kjartan Halldorsson. A small, turquoise restaurant dots what is otherwise a relatively uninteresting harbor for tourists, offering what seems to be impossible to find elsewhere in Reykjavik: outstanding Icelandic food at a reasonable price.

The best lobster soup in the world and even more, the pleasant feeling of a warm filling meal in the tummy after spending a cold windy day getting wet from rain and geysers spouting on you. You quickly forget all that suffering at Kjartan Halldorsson’s. Upon entering the cozy joint in nautical surroundings, the scent of grilled fish reaches you. And the path to happiness isn’t obscured by a lot of obstacles, since ordering is also easy for non-Icelanders: What you see is what you get. From a refrigerated counter you select a skip  and pay at the counter (from €7 to €11 each). Then it’s grilled and, if you’d like, served with potatoes—baked or as salad. If classics like salmon, tuna, shrimp, lobster or cod are too boring for you, you can also try cormorant, minke whale or local puffin.

For hard-boiled experimentation fun there is the Icelandic specialty Hákarl (small cubes of putrefied Greenland shark)—but you had better like the strong smell of ammonia. If you can’t handle it, the svarti dauði (black death) liquor served with it washes away the worst. But no one should leave the island without trying the “Humarsupa” mentioned above: a creamy soup with a spicy touch of nutmeg and cinnamon and big, juicy lobster pieces for about €8 including bread and butter. Those in the know save themselves the €17 they would pay elsewhere for a slice of tomato and a piece of mozzarella on a toothpick disguised as “Caprese” and head right to Saegreifinn for a Moby Dick on a stick.

Saegreifinn
Geirsgata 8
101 Reykjavik

www.saegreifinn.is

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